Young trees are susceptible to sun scald over the winter months when trees have lost their shading leaves and when the sun strikes at a low angle. This is exacerbated when freezing temperatures and dry air sucks the moisture out of the bark. Until trees develop a thick, corky, protective outer bark, they can get sunburned just like you and me. Sunlight can skip off snow covered ground magnifying the intensity of the sun’s rays. Sun scald dries out the trunk, splitting the bark and potentially kills the trees if left unchecked.

Fortunately, sun scald is easily preventable with a simple and inexpensive task that any homeowner can effortlessly perform. Please winter wrap your young trees to shield the vulnerable trunks from desiccating winter sun. Tree wrap is simply a weather resistant paper tape that you wrap around the trees to cover the bark. You can buy tree wrap at most big box stores or at your favorite local garden center.

Start at the ground level and wrap the trunks up to where the branching starts. You can secure the tree wrap with duct tape or electrical tape. Wrap snuggly to prevent sagging, and make sure to overlap each course as you spiral up the tree. Remove the wrap when leaves emerge in the spring. This is one of the simplest chores you can perform to protect your investment.

Other winter considerations:
Nature knows trees and all plants need moisture in the ground as they settle in for their winter slumber, and this year rains arrived just in time. Roots will continue to store nutrients even after the leaves have fallen, so if the rain stops and the ground dries up please drag out the hoses and give the trees a drink. This is usually not necessary, but we don’t want the ground to freeze with the soil bone dry. Be aware of the weather and water only if necessary.

Heavy snow loads can snap branches or bend trunks of young trees over to the ground. Trees are particularly vulnerable if early snows strike before the leaves have fallen, or with late spring snows after leaves have emerged. Throw on the snow boots and gently shake the snow off your young trees during heavy storms if snow accumulates on the branches and twigs.

Now is actually a great time for planting and fall-dug trees are arriving weekly. We keep the crews running though mid-December so please share this article if you think your friends would find this advice helpful.
 

Right now is a great time to fertilize your lawn and garden plants. As summer heat wanes Bluegrass and other turf species start sending nutrients to the roots and storing energy for winter dormancy. Apply one pound of nitrogen per one thousand square feet two to three times during the fall season to supply your lawn with necessary nutrients during this critical growth period. Fall fertilization encourages roots to penetrate deeply into the soil resulting in healthier and more drought tolerant turf.

This advice may sound counterintuitive if you’ve been conditioned to fertilize in the spring. Spring fertilization can promote excessive top growth leading to a stressed and burned out lawn when summer’s scorching heat arrives. While Iron and micronutrient fertilizers are beneficial in the springtime, nitrogen-based fertilizers are best applied in the fall.  You can review our advice for spring lawn fertilization here: http://happytrees.co/blog/14784/Spring-Lawn-Fertilization

All fertilizers carry an analysis which indicates the percentages of the three primary plant nutrients, which are nitrogen, phosphate, and potash, and displayed as 20-10-10 (or any combination of numbers relating to how this particular brand of fertilizer was formulated).  In this example the bag contains 20% nitrogen, 10% phosphate, and 10% potash. Along the Front Range, our soil generally contains sufficient phosphate and potash, so select a formulation with less than 10% of these nutrients.

Nitrogen is major building block of plant cells and is primarily responsible for stimulating growth. Applying nitrogen in the fall stimulates desirable root growth rather than excessive top growth. The Colorado State University Extension Service recommends that one pound of nitrogen per thousand square feet should be applied to lawns from mid-August to mid-September, and another one pound of nitrogen per thousand square feet should be applied from early October to early November. Therefore, you should look for a fertilizer with no more than 20% nitrogen for a fall application. The North Carolina Department of Agriculture has a simple guide to help you calculate how much fertilizer to apply in order to achieve one pound of nitrogen per thousand square feet of turf: http://www.ncagr.gov/cyber/kidswrld/plant/label.htm.

One of the most exciting advances in agricultural science is the introduction of live cultures of beneficial bacteria and fungi into our soil for the benefit of agricultural crops and landscape plants, including lawn grasses. We are only recently beginning to understand the essential role that beneficial bacteria and fungi contribute to promote a healthy soil ecosystem that supports plant life above ground.  These products are now becoming commercially available and I would encourage you to seek them out at your local garden center or nursery and incorporate them into your gardening practices.

With a good spreader fertilizing is perhaps one of the easiest chores that any homeowner can accomplish with the right information. Knowing what type of fertilizer to apply at the proper time of year can help you achieve a lush landscape sustainable for many generations to come. Check back often for other seasonal gardening tips. Thank you for your consideration of Happy Trees and have a great day!
 

You may be wondering “What are those trees with the remarkable yellow leaves?” With rare exception, what you are witnessing is not a tree with ornamental yellow leaves, but rather a tree whose leaves ought to be green but is suffering from a nutrient deficiency called iron chlorosis. Iron, the same element that holds up our bridges and skyscrapers, is a major building block of chlorophyll at the cellular level. Chlorophyll is responsible for photosynthesis, the process that converts sunlight into sugars and other nutrients.

Iron gives leaves their vibrant green color. Iron is abundant in our soils but often in a form chemically unavailable for plant uptake. When plants are unable to extract iron from the soil, they can’t manufacture chlorophyll. Without chlorophyll, the plants can’t produce the food they need to survive. The leaves turn yellow, weakening the plant until eventually it dies.

Treatment: The old adage “an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure” is appropriate here. It can be difficult and expensive to try to resuscitate a severely afflicted tree, but it is relatively easy to prevent the condition from occurring. There are many commercially available iron-based fertilizers with beneficial micronutrients such as manganese, copper, zinc, and boron, which can also lead to chlorosis if deficient in the soil. If you are using regular iron-based lawn treatments in the spring time you are probably giving your trees the iron they need as well. See our blog on spring lawn fertilization for more information. Please note iron will stain concrete and masonry so sweep or otherwise remove all iron fertilizer from hardscape surfaces immediately after application!

If you notice yellowing of leaves, particularly on Maple and Oak, liquid iron foliar sprays should be immediately applied for a swift but temporary therapy. For mature or severely distressed trees consult an arborist for more aggressive treatment. For wide spread or persistent symptoms you may want to look into Sulphur-based fertilizers to lower your soil’s pH level, which can temper our alkaline soil and potentially release iron for the trees.

One of the most exciting recent advances in agricultural science is the introduction of live cultures of beneficial bacteria and fungi into our soil for the benefit of agricultural crops and landscape plants. While more research is needed, these microbes consume complex molecules and may be able to release iron and other micronutrients in simpler forms, making them chemically available to the plants. These products are now becoming commercially available and I would encourage you to seek them out at your local garden center or nursery and incorporate them into your gardening practices.

As you look around the next time you drive out to the airport you’ll get a good sense for what kind of trees like to live here, meaning virtually none. This is due in part to our alkaline soils binding up iron and other micronutrients, making them unavailable for our trees’ nutrition. With a little observation and fertilization, your favorite trees from similar climates around the world can be enjoyed all along Colorado’s Front Range for generations to come.
 

Quick summary: When emerging from winter dormancy, your lawn will greatly benefit from an application of fertilizer with no more than 5% nitrogen, but rich with micronutrients such as calcium, sulfur, copper, zinc, magnesium, and predominantly iron.  Iron is a major building block of chlorophyll, which is responsible for photosynthesis and is basically the engine of the plant.  Iron gives tree leaves and grass blades their rich, green color.  Note: iron will react with water and will stain concrete and masonry, so sweep or otherwise remove all fertilizer pellets from hardscape surfaces after application!  Continue reading for a detailed explanation and other helpful advice. 

The Daffodil are in full bloom and that means the big box stores are aggressively advertising sales on their spring lawn fertilizer.  While right now is an optimal time to apply fertilizer to your lawn, use a little caution and take a moment to educate yourself before heading out to the lumber yard or your local garden center.

As you walk the isles the choice and selection can be overwhelming.  Not all fertilizers are the same and many can be outright detrimental to your lawn if applied at this time!  All fertilizers carry an analysis which indicates the percentages of the three primary plant nutrients, which are nitrogen, phosphate, and potash, and displayed as 5-10-10 (or any combination of numbers relating to how this particular brand of fertilizer was formulated).  In this example the bag contains 5% nitrogen, 10% phosphate, and 10% potash.

Nitrogen is major building block of plant cells and is primarily responsible for stimulating growth.  The Colorado State University Extension Service recommends that no more than one pound of nitrogen be applied to lawns per 1,000 square feet at this time of year.  Therefore, you should look for a fertilizer with no more than 5% nitrogen for a Spring application (higher is acceptable if available in a slow release formulation).  Many of the brands you encounter may contain upwards of 20% nitrogen, and this is potentially harmful for the long-term health of your bluegrass lawn. 

If you apply high nitrogen fertilizers to your lawn at this time, you will be amazed at the results.  Your winter-brown lawn will green up instantly and you will soon be mowing twice a week to keep up with the rapid growth.  By mid-June you may be gazing at your lush lawn quite pleased with your results.  However, the intense heat of July and August will bake your stressed-out grass and your lawn will likely burn out, resulting in patchy, weed infested, and browned-out turf. 

I think the national brands do this intentionally to sell you more lawn conditioners and weed killers later in the season. You think you’ve done the right thing because you saw great results initially, and the good folks at brand X have all the products you need to keep your lawn healthy and weed free all summer long, right?  Please be a responsible steward of your property and heed the following advise for a more sustainable landscape.

When emerging from winter dormancy, your lawn will greatly benefit from an application of fertilizer with no more than 5% nitrogen, but rich with micronutrients such as calcium, sulfur, copper, zinc, magnesium, and predominantly iron.  Iron is a major building block of chlorophyll, which is responsible for photosynthesis and is basically the engine of the plant.  Iron gives tree leaves and grass blades their rich, green color.  Feeding your lawn with iron and micronutrients at this time will result in a greener, more water efficient lawn throughout the summer.  Note: iron will react with water and will stain concrete and masonry, so sweep or otherwise remove all fertilizer pellets from hardscape surfaces after application! 

One of the most exciting advances in agricultural science is the introduction of live cultures of beneficial bacteria and fungi into our soil for the benefit of agricultural crops and landscape plants.  We have long thought of bacteria and fungi as pathogens to be eradicated from our gardens.  We are only recently beginning to understand the essential role that beneficial bacteria and fungi contribute to promote a healthy soil ecosystem that supports plant life above ground.  These products are now becoming commercially available and I would encourage you to seek them out at your local garden center or nursery and incorporate them into your gardening practices.

With a good spreader fertilizing is perhaps one of the easiest chores that any homeowner can accomplish with the right information.  The North Carolina Department of Agriculture has a simple guide to help you calculate how much fertilizer to apply in order to achieve 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet of turf: http://www.ncagr.gov/cyber/kidswrld/plant/label.htm.

Check back often for other seasonal gardening tips.  Thank you for your consideration of Happy Trees and have a great day!
 

Happy spring!  As the weather warms up and your plants begin to wake up from their winter slumber, be aware that roots begin to develop long before you see any leaves emerge or flowers pop open.  The roots need moisture in order to begin pushing through the soil and transporting nutrients to the developing buds.  We generally don’t turn on our irrigation systems until late April or May, and spring snows may not adequately provide moisture deep into the root zone.  Its important to drag the hoses out and water your plants if natural precipitation is deficient.

If we’ve experienced rain or snow, or if the ground is still frozen or snow covered you don’t need to do anything just yet.  Just please keep an eye on the ground moisture and water on a warm day as needed.  A good soaking once a week should be ample until you get your irrigation system fired up.  If you have a recently planted tree from Happy Trees, your water gauge can show you if moisture is available in the root zone.  Otherwise you might dig a little in the vegetable garden or other inconspicuous place to see if there’s moisture in the soil or not.  With Colorado’s intense sunshine and Chinook winds it doesn’t take long for the ground to dry out completely.

One last tip…temperatures are still dropping below freezing on some nights so disconnect your hose from the tap to prevent freeze damage.  Drain your hoses so they don’t freeze as well.  Spring watering can help your plants and trees get off to a healthy start, so be aware of your plant’s needs and water as necessary.